Experience the FIDE Candidates 2024 Fever from the Inside Out: Chronicles of a Local Torontonian
This April, Toronto emerged as the world’s most desired chess destination, pulling in enthusiasts from all over the globe. Hosting the FIDE Candidates event, the city metamorphosed into a little chess paradise, brimming with captivating side events and guest appearances by legendary players. As a local Torontonian, I experienced this incredible chess extravaganza from both a spectator’s and a behind-the-scenes volunteer’s perspectives.
So, buckle up, as I’m about to share some of my unforgettable highlights of this month’s Toronto chess life.
The Venue
The FIDE Candidates 2024 took place within the historic walls of The Great Hall, an elegant Victorian-style building that “served as the headquarters of several organizations throughout its history”
Beyond its stylish red brick exterior, this venue just witnessed some epic mental duels that could have easily caused the roof to burst from all the brainpower emanating within. Or, at least, that’s how it felt.
Guest visit
Upon my visit to The Great Hall during the 4th round, I ascended past the vigilant security guards onto the balcony. From this vantage point, you can almost see the entire playing arena and the imminent round’s buzz & jazz: players gathering at their tables and shaking hands, photographers dancing around them, arbiters discreetly praying no one is wearing inappropriate shoes …
And then …
The round commences. The first moves are made. The time starts ticking, and the hall goes quiet. Spectators zero in on the games holding their breaths. Only the squeaking of the floor is heard as the photographers waltz around the players capturing the first precious moments. The squeaking is gently hushed by the “shhh” sound coming from the room’s ventilation—a familiar soothing white noise I use on my app to lull myself to sleep.
In case you are unable to see players’ boards, you can view the games on a large screen at the front of the playing hall. And the fan zone.
As the games wear on, you can feel the atmosphere's intensity rise and the standing observers' stamina, including your own, fall. It’s time for us to leave, making way for the next wave of eager spectators.
The Fan Zone
Downstairs, the fan zone is bubbling with cheer. Some people are playing chess at the designated chessboards; others are watching live commentary on the screen or passionately engaging in a conversation. A few look bored to death but deep inside are eagerly waiting for the next appearance of a Candidate for a chance at a photo or autograph.
Caption: ChessBase India captures the fans, including myself, getting Vidit's autograph and photos.
It is in this hub that I catch up with charming Charlize, the “fun face of the FIDE broadcast,” whom I met earlier at the opening ceremony. We dive into various topics ranging from chess, travel, work, family, the future, and the past. I don’t know how she does it, but Charlize’s ability to effortlessly spot me in the bustling crowd (here or in the chess pub) and greet me with the warmest smile never fails to amaze me! I think I just made a new friend!
The Guardian of the Hallowed Washrooms
On one of my volunteer days, I was the guardian of the players’ lavatories, a task disguised under the fancy name of “Fair Play.” For 3.5 hours I was to sit in a tiny hallway nested between the playing area and the players’ washrooms and make sure no one, NO ONE(!) other than the players entered this sacred territory.
Stripped of all my gadgets and worldly possessions (for security reasons) I was left in this hallway with nothing to do but stare at the surrounding claustrophobia-inducing walls and divider. You’d think it was some kind of punishment, but guess what? For once, I got to sit and relax!
But then the real fun began …
On one occasion I had to ward off two very old gentlemen who mistook the entrance to this area as the main to the event.
On other occasions, I positioned myself to look like a strong, vigilant guard whenever someone I hadn’t been introduced to tried to peek into this area. Naha, can’t enter!
And then … the Candidates!
One player casually walked by like a poet strolling through a park, unhurried and lost in thought. Another player stormed by like a hurricane. My hair blew in my face as I had just enough time to step out of his way.
I saw half of the Candidates up so close in such delicate, crucial times of their games, that FIDE missed their chance to sell VIP tickets just for that! Still, I tried very hard to blend in with the walls and be invisible, as all the players had such intense focus and look on their faces, that I didn’t want to accidentally “photobomb” their mental image of their game.
At some point, I started to swap my premium VIP “jail time” with another volunteer behind the door to the main playing area, every half hour.
So I actually got to watch some of the players battling it out on the board, which felt larger than life!
Madison Chess Pub
Our famous Madison Chess Pub was unusually overcrowded as it was the go-to hang-out place for many chess players attending the event, including several notable grandmasters, chess.com, and FIDE staff. What an incredible place to hang out with everyone!
Side Events
If watching the FIDE Candidates wasn’t satisfying enough, the Beyond The Board: Legends of Chess Give Back side event offered an insightful peek into tournament life. Held in the heart of Toronto, the event featured the screening of a recently released award-winning documentary film King Chess, a “time capsule” of a nostalgic journey into the 2018 FIDE Candidates’ backstage.
Directed by Gloria Iseli, and starring our chess.com Top Blogger, Dylan Quercia, known as CMCoachQ, Chess King is an intense and captivating watch.
Interestingly, I met Dylan the night before the film screening at the Madison Pub. We played a few games and had a nice chat. A serendipitous chess encounter?
At the event, I also had the chance to meet the legendary GM Vishy Anand and GM Alexandra Kosteniuk, which was a chess dream come true! I met Alexandra when we were 8 and 10 years old, at the National Russian Girls Championships and I’ve been “following” her ever since.
Several other super awesome side events were held in the city, graced with the visiting chess legends, but I was too chessed-out to attend.
The New Norm
After all the excitement, chess battles, and meeting new faces, mingling with renowned chess players has become a standard occurrence. If earlier I paid $150 to meet and greet Alexandra Kosteniuk, now I bumped into her on the street, for free!
Encountering GM Ivan Cheparinov at the Chess Pub every Wednesday, chatting with FunMasterMike and Charlize, and catching glimpses of the Candidates for the 10th time, while still exciting, has also become … typical.
And that’s how immersive this experience has grown!
For three weeks, Torontonians lived and breathed an extraordinary chess life, a journey to remember and cherish forever. What a wild ride!
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Congratulations to the winners - GM Gukesh D and GM Tan Zhongyi! And bravo to all the Candidates who showed incredible determination and resilience to reach the finish line under such immense pressure. Applause!
