The Best Place in London to play chess!

This blog details my experiences at the weekly casual chess events at Coffee Zee London off Holloway Road (266 Holloway Rd, London N7 6NE, United Kingdom) which meets every Friday from 6-9pm

Coffee-House Chess is often seen as a bygone era of chess - A place where the romantics played their first skirmishes in our game before the formalisation of chess clubs in the late 19th/20th century. The thick aromas of this pyschoactive drug that we consume on a near regular basis, historians have argued, attributed to the "Great Enlightenment" period in the 18th/19th century; perhaps due to the caffeine content that has led to better cognitive function in humans. It is no wonder that some of the best recorded games of chess happened in these houses; I am sure it must have been exciting to witness some of these brilliancies as a spectator all those years ago.

One of the most famous coffeehouses associated with chess was Café de la Régence in Paris. Established in the early 18th century, this venue became the epicenter of chess activity in France. Chess masters and enthusiasts flocked to Café de la Régence to test their skills against opponents, engage in friendly competitions, and participate in informal tournaments. The café witnessed the rise of prominent chess figures like François-André Danican Philidor, a musician and chess prodigy whose contributions to chess strategy and endgame theory left an indelible mark on the game.

A painting of François-André Danican Philidor and a depiction of what Café de la Régence may have looked like all those years ago.

Coffee house chess not only served as a social outlet for chess enthusiasts but also played a crucial role in the evolution of chess strategy. The informal nature of the games allowed players to experiment with new ideas, openings, and tactics. The constant exchange of information and strategies within the coffeehouse environment contributed to the rapid advancement of chess knowledge during this period.

The café culture spread beyond France, reaching cities like London, Vienna, and Berlin. In London, the famous Simpson's Divan became a hotspot for chess aficionados, hosting numerous tournaments and attracting the likes of Howard Staunton, one of the strongest players of the 19th century. The coffeehouses of Vienna, including the celebrated Café Central, became centres of chess culture, fostering the development of the hypermodern chess movement.

As the 19th century progressed, chess clubs and formalized tournaments began to replace coffeehouses as the primary venues for competitive play. However, the legacy of coffee house chess endured, leaving an indelible mark on the history and culture of the game. The social and intellectual atmosphere of these establishments played a crucial role in shaping the chess landscape and contributed to the growth of chess as a serious and respected intellectual pursuit.

In this blog, I wish to make the argument that coffee-house chess has not only returned; but is experiencing its own renaissance as a way to play chess in a fun and friendly environment.

Coffee Zee Chess - The new Café de la Régence?

Since the end of the pandemic, there has been no end to the amount of different places to play chess in the bustling capital. It is now possible to play casual OTB (over the board) chess somewhere in London any day of the week. A few years ago, I highlighted in a chess blog this boom in the London chess scene with inordinate amount of different outdoor spaces that were playing OTB chess after the shut-down of the country in 2020/21. Whilst these spaces are still a teeming hive of chess activity, with Winter firmly gripping the UK in its freezing, unforgiving hands, I wanted to highlight one indoor place that I would highly recommend to anyone wanting to give casual OTB chess a go.

The player on the right looks firmly in control...

Off the busy dual carriage of Holloway Road sits a small coffee shop called Coffee Zee. With only a 2 minute walk from the underground station (Holloway road) which you can access easily on the Piccadilly Line, it is a warm, cozy place where you can enjoy good coffee and play some great skirmishes in our immortal game. Every Friday from 6-9pm, the shop keeps its doors open to greet any stranger to partake in an interesting or even intriguing chess game whilst they enjoy a sip of their favourite well-prepared hot beverage (they do good toasted sandwiches as well).

Just a simple 2-minute walk from Holloway Road underground station, under the railway bridge you will find Coffee Zee on the right-hand side (heading in a northward direction)

Set up by the London Chess Community, which also offers a couple of other casual chess meet-ups on Mondays and Wednesday, the group has the core belief that chess should be for everyone no matter what there skill level or previous experience is in chess. Events are completely free, so anyone can come along and play. In this sense the areas that they offer are inclusive to all chess player abilities. I had heard of this place nearly two years ago and with its closer proximity to my work compared to the other meet ups (I live on the Northside of London) I had to go and check it out. It has now become a firm staple in my weekly chess diet and is one of my favourite places to play chess. 

Take a deep breath! One of our players gasping for air in this chess game.

Why is it my favourite place to play?

If you have never ventured to a casual chess event, I would highly encourage that you do so. Playing casual chess offers an area to play chess without the anxiety and pressure that can sometimes come with the game. Gone is the "stuck-upness" that you may experience with a normal chess club or the loud shushes from disgruntled members of the chess club because there is too much noise; Coffee Zee offers a different environment where you can discuss games openly and enjoy a deep and meaningful post-game analysis with your opponent. Whilst it is not always the case, I find that with competitive league chess that opponents are unwilling sometimes to look over their games with you (especially if the game goes on late) and instead prefer retreating to the silicon machine for all their answers. 

Coffee Zee offers something a little unique for casual chess as well. Instead of the loud cacophony of noise that you may experience playing casual chess in a pub or bar, Coffee Zee offers a much cozier and friendlier environment for any chess player. Instead of the "breaking-the-bank" £10 pints that you may get in a central London location, the coffee is much more affordable (no heavy taxes!) and gives you less of a headache the next day... (experiences may differ...).

Casual Chess Tournaments

Having played at this venue for over a year, as a group, we decided to set-up a casual chess tournament for us to play in. The central theme for these tournaments would be that they should be free, fun and competitive; as a result there are also no prizes as well (although if anyone would like to sponsor us...). Our casual chess tournaments offer an experience for all players: For the newer chess players, playing in a casual chess tournament acted as a gateway to competitive chess world without the need to spend a lot of money on membership costs to the ECF and the sometimes high costs to tournament entries. For the experienced folk, our casual chess tournaments offered a place where they could battle it out against the best players in London.

Photos from our casual chess tournaments

One of our winners who scored an impressive 6.5/7 in our tournament that evening!

Attendance normally ranges from 16-24 players in an evening - This is the maximum capacity of our chess club.

I will normally try to run one of these every month or so - depending on my availability ultimately.

Our next casual chess tournament

If you like what you have seen in this blog, check out the next casual chess tournament I am running this Friday. The tournament starts at 7pm but registration starts from 6:30pm. If you don't want to miss out on playing, I would suggest coming early on as space is limited in the shop. You will need to bring your own chess clock (an chess clock app on your phone is fine). 

Please note: It will be back to casual chess the following week

London Chess Community

If you are interested in the London Chess Community, check out their Instagram for weekly updates on chess events. They offer three different events which you can check out below: 

Monday meet-ups

Wednesday meet-ups

A famous attendee

Eric Rosen approved!

Coffee Zee

Information to Coffee Zee can also be found on their instagram. 

The coffee shop owner is and experienced barista and shares his love of it through his produce and shop.

The shop itself overlooking the busy A1 Road.